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BREAKING INTO MODELING

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Many models are fortunate in having a mother or a friend who has had experience in the modeling world and can offer personal advice. Inside information certainly smoothens the way in a profession that can be potentially unpleasant or even risky. Youth and ambition are a combination that could make you easy prey if you are not aware of very unscrupulous persons who could be waiting to take advantage of you. This profession is particularly rife with pitfalls, and you will need someone to look out for you, especially in a large fast city. Where beautiful and very young girls are treated as commodities, it is often difficult to keep the path clear of hazards.

With this in mind, look for the modeling agency with the most pristine reputation for safeguarding its models. The agency that takes precautions and carefully selects its clients will be in business with a secure future. You need only look at the Yellow Pages to see how quickly an agency can fail. Few modeling agencies last more than a very few seasons. A handful of seasoned modeling agencies continue to exist after five years' time.

ARE YOU MODEL MATERIAL?



If you live in an area far from major cities, you will have to rely on your own hunches and trying to establish yourself as being attractive in the local public eye. It is difficult without having the advantage of the professional's experience to judge, but you generally know if you might have the potential. That is the starting point.

If you've already been noticed by local photographers or been considered good-looking by others all your life, you are probably at least attractive. The only way to know, what that might mean for you as a model is to proceed in the general direction of public affirmation of your physical attributes. Popularity must not be confused with possible modeling qualifications.

After reading Chapter 1 of this book, you should have a better idea where you fit in. The dictates are pretty clear-cut, so don't expect an agency to make exceptions. If your reflection shows you a short, rounded figure with hips and sloping shoulders, don't torture yourself by trying to be what you're not. There are millions of job opportunities in the world. If your heart's desire is to be in the modeling world, maybe you could be happy in a model-associated field. Or maybe you would be satisfied as a specialty model who has some perfect parts like hands, face, or smile. It is obviously more difficult to test the waters for your potential ability in rural areas. Your best bet might be to have some good photographs made of your hands or some good head shots and send them with a covering letter and a resume to an agency. If they are interested, they will make an appointment with you. Many modeling schools in smaller city areas are good sources of contact. When you take classes with them, it often entitles you to do regional modeling work.

You need lots of exposure to get a good handle on public response to your ability to model. The tinier the geographical area, the harder it will be to gain this kind of exposure, but there are endless ways to expand this limitation. After you have contacted the modeling schools, make an effort to write or talk to all the agencies in nearby cities. From there, you may want to enter all the local beauty contests and visit all the department stores and malls, leaving your name and photo (with your statistics and phone number). You may be surprised at the amount of work that can come your way in this manner. If a model is needed for a promotion, and you were clever enough to have left all the needed information, you will probably be the first chosen. It's happened more often than one would suppose that a "break" was prepared ahead of time by an aspirant, and luck did the rest. There is just too much competition for these jobs for you to be able to sit back and wait for them to come to you.

Suppose you are doing all right in a medium-sized city as a model. You may be perfectly happy there, and though the money is not earthshaking, you could make a decent living ($20,000 to $30,000) keeping quite busy with runway work, promotional work, photographic work, and whatever local television work you could pick up. You are in demand and available full-time. If you are totally dependent upon your modeling wages, make certain to have a nest egg to tide you over, as modeling is often affected by fickle trends.

As a high fashion model hopeful, you will have to make your way to New York City, Los Angeles, or Chicago. Two smaller cities with moderate amounts of work to offer would be Atlanta and Cleveland in the east, and San Francisco and Dallas in the west. You may want to give these latter cities a try before you feel confident enough to approach the capitals of modeling.

Any positive experience under your belt will be an added plus in your climb up the ladder in a modeling career.

THE BEAUTY CONTEST

Thousands of aspiring young women have entered local beauty pageants in the hope of being discovered as models, starlets, and eventual celebrities. These contests are always open to pretty or talented girls. Some even include women who have grown children! There is so much chance for media coverage in these contests that even if you are not any more than a local winner, you could get quite a bit of mileage out of the publicity. There are also the added incentives of prizes and possible scholarships and contracts. It can be a surprisingly good stepping-stone.

Agents and their assistants have a keen eye focused on the many contests that occur annually. Many an ignored contestant has become a top model, partly because beauty pageants are geared toward a much meatier body than fashion modeling and partly because many beauty contestants photograph well but do not come across well in personal appearances (critical to the mass promotions on such contests). There is no longer a stigma on entering to win, and it is not unusual to see last year's Miss State XYZ be this year's representative of State ZYX, having established residency in the six months required to qualify. And amazingly, these women time and again walk off with the prizes the second, third, or even fourth time around. There is obviously something to be said for their methodical approaches.

Very few people would want to make a career of vying annually for places in beauty pageants, but as far as a lesson in persistence goes, it is similar to the attitude that you'll need to have for modeling. If you are convinced that you really want to get into modeling, there are hundreds of beauty contests available to you. Start by reading the magazines geared to the teenage market, and carefully select those contests that offer modeling jobs as prizes. There are many such contests, but the entry fees may be costly and the wardrobe another out-of-pocket expense. Some contests are so costly that sponsors are available, and you will have to investigate which ones will promote you the best toward your modeling goal.

A local pageant may give you the experience that will help you get to the top in a bigger one, or you may want to try for the nationals right away.

One major drawback in the two largest contests (Miss America and Miss Universe) is the age requirement for entering. If you are young and heart-set on a high fashion career, you may do better to give the smaller contests your attention, as they are geared to teenagers exclusively. Youth being the marketable item that it is, you may be wasting precious time by holding out for bigger stakes.

The most well-known beauty contests for teenagers are given in the following list. It is best for you to write directly to each for information regarding the time, place, entry fees, and rules. So study the regulations and be aware of what they can do to help your career get started.

The aforementioned contests can give you great exposure and lots of press coverage. With all the photography and television, you will be able to get an idea of how you look on film. There are many local contests that lead up to the bigger ones, and every inch of the way could help your modeling career along. As long as you hold even the most insignificant title, people are curious to see what and who you are, so don't hesitate to push yourself forward for even the smallest contests. Modeling is nothing but competition at the bottom line, and every chance to compete should be welcomed.

The more experience the better. The competition must be overcome in such a way that you come out on top looking like you were just the best choice, not clawing tooth and nail to push yourself to the forefront. Everything has been tried, from researching the judges' backgrounds (to better prepare answers that would please their interests), to extensive plastic surgery (in the hope of being just what the judges are looking for). You'll do best by sticking with what you already have. Beauty contests are judged by human beings whose ideas of beauty are often very different. You could spend your entire life arranging yourself to suit someone else's likes or expectations.

Two other competitions in particular are conducted with a modeling contract offered as a prize. The most famous is Super Model of the World/Face of the 90's (in association with Ford Models, Inc.), and the other is Teen's Great Model Search.

Super Model of the World

The international search for Super Model of the World will take place every fall throughout the world. To enter, contact the Ford agency in New York City. Ask for the super model division. As the contest will differ slightly every year, the most up-to-date information will be available from Ford Models, Inc. Their address can be found under the listings of agencies and schools in the back of this book. You must be between fourteen and twenty-four to enter. They will want to know your name, address, telephone number, date of birth, measurements, height, and weight. You will also need to enclose two snapshots or larger photographs: one head shot, one body shot. They need not be professional shots, and either black and white or color ones are acceptable.

If you win the regional contest, you will continue to compete in the United States until one girl is selected who will enter the international contest as the United States representative. The final contest is held annually at a different exotic location.

The coveted prize is a modeling contract for $250,000 for a three-year period.

Teen's Great Model Search

Teen's Great Model Search has no physical stipulations as to height and weight. This competition requires head and full body shots and all statistics. Entrants must be from the United States or Canada, be between the ages of twelve and eighteen, and desire to become a model. For more information write to Great Model Search, Teen Magazine, 110 Fifth Avenue, 5th floor, New York, NY 10011.

HEADING FOR THE BIG AGENCIES

If you already live in or near New York City, Chicago, or Los Angeles, you may want to approach the top people in the field. The big agencies are naturally where the largest amounts of money can be made, and if you are truly qualified, why shouldn't you start at the highest salary that you can command?

Call and make an appointment with an interviewer. Some agencies prefer that you bring photographs so that the interviewer can see how photogenic you are. If you only have bad shots of yourself and you realize that they are awful, don't take them to an agent. The scrutinizing eye of the agent will be able to tell whether you should invest in any shots. They might not be interested at all, and then you would be wasting your money and time. On the other hand, if you have good photographs of your face and full body, you will certainly want to show them to the agent. The agent will be looking at how well your bone structure comes across in a photograph.

The interviewers' keen eye is really critical in delineation of potential models. Their experience in what to look for can save you many hours of indecision. If you are just what that particular agency needs, you may happily end your search. If not, you must make another and another appointment until you have exhausted all of the agencies, large and small, that you would consider working for.

Give yourself a fair chance to get into an agency. After several months and some polishing of your whole look, however, if you are still pounding the sidewalks, start to think of another profession. The experts really do know, and there's very little that can be done to change the current selling look.

BREAKING INTO TELEVISION MODELING

Many models are already working as photographic models when they make the first step into the television commercial. Such people are guided by their agents and are prepared for the audition so that they know what to expect. An audition of any kind can be a pretty awful experience, and it is particularly noted for its destruction of egos. Of course if you do land the part, you can feel really elated. Your agent will guide you as to what looks best on film vis-a-vis your mode of dress, the actual pattern of your clothing, your color scheme, and the kind of clothes that your portrayed character is supposed to be wearing. Your makeup and hair will also have to be suited to the character role. Try to feel comfortable with your costume, so that you can concentrate on the critical part of the audition.

You will arrive at the audition site at the scheduled time; tell the receptionist that you are there, and then wait, nervously sizing up the competition. You will have brought your resume and your head shot, which you will leave for the casting director to review or merely to remind him or her who (of the thousands) you were.

After a while, you will be introduced to other models who may be sharing this commercial with you. You will also be given your script and told the general story line of what will be acted in your little scenario. You may or may not have a speaking part. If you do speak, you will have to memorize your lines as well as the cues and directions.

Suppose you are trying for a hair product commercial. Directors usually look for blonds, because highlights are more easily picked up when the hair is light, and because the United States is a blond-oriented society. Semi-long hair has more movement to it and is considered to be more sensual. If you have both the right color and length, your chances are greatly improved. Your next problem is to move with ease and be completely relaxed with a television camera, crew, and a whole roomful of strangers with your mini-skirt jiggling around in your head.

Having gotten this far, you are ready to go in front of the cameras. Things seldom go as planned. You may find yourself doing not one but as many as a dozen or more takes. If there are more people involved in the commercial, it could take quite a while just to coordinate everyone. Trying to make each take seem fresh and natural is easier said than done. Take number one may be stiff, but by the time you get to take number fifteen, exhaustion will have overcome stiffness.

If you can develop the knack of doing television commercials, the thousands of dollars plus residuals paid for each one more than compensate for the boredom, anxiety, cattle-call degradation, and myriad takes.

After successfully getting through one of these little commercial vignettes, you may consider doing another one. Viewers automatically assume that if a person endorses a product (models with it or promotes it verbally), that person surely uses it as well. This is often just not the case, but the manufacturer of the product that you have promoted does have the right to prevent you from modeling for that company's direct competitors for a period of time (depending on the contract you signed). If you modeled for a certain company's new color-rinse shampoo and then were offered a commercial by another hair product company to model their antidandruff shampoo, the advertisers would see that as a definite conflict of interest. You will be financially compensated to turn down the second company's offer. You could, however, model any unrelated area of products from any non-shampoo-making company.

If you don't land that first commercial, try again. If you believe that your hair is your best asset, try out for all the endless hair accessories, hair dryers, shampoos, rinses, dyes, clippers, pins, gels, curling irons, hair pieces, treatments, medications, highlighters, curlers, home permanents, and even stylists' commercials. Hairdressers' competitions have helped some models later obtain a hair commercial. Several known models got started with just such a TV commercial.

Unions

Unions strictly protect people who perform in the commercials, monitoring pay scale, time allowed to work, and where and when work can be done. When you try for your first commercial, you will not need to worry about unions; you are permitted one "free" commercial before you are forced to join a union (or unions). The union sets a uniform pay scale that must be strictly adhered to regardless of the person's status as model, actor, or even person off the street. All ages of people are included in these codes. Your agent can advise you as to which unions to join and where and how to pay your annual dues.

There are two unions that you may need to join if you intend to do extensive work in television commercials. One covers live commercials and the other covers videotaped commercials:

AFTRA    SAG (Screen Actors' Guild)

(American Federation of Television and Radio Artists, 1515 Broadway New York, NY 10036)

260 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10016

There are rules as to which union coverage you will have to have. Lacking an agent, you must be responsible for your own protection. That means inquiring and applying for these union memberships as needed.

Membership in the American Federation of Television and Radio Artists (AFTRA) is currently $1,000 and annual dues are $42.50 semiannually. AFTRA is an open union.

Membership in the Screen Actors' Guild (SAG) is currently $1,160.50 and annual dues are $85, plus 1.5 percent over $5,000.

To apply for membership to the guild, you must have done anything under SAG's jurisdiction (such as a screen feature film or commercial) or have been a member of one of the following for at least a year:

AEA (Actors' Equity Association)

AFTRA (American Federation of Television and Radio Artists)

AGMA (American Guild of Musical Artists)

AGVA (American Guild of Variety Artists)

Hebrew Actors' Union Italian Actors' Union

Resume

A resume is very important if you are planning to audition for television commercials. The resume should give all the critical statistics. A particular style or layout, clever arrangement of the critical information, or artistic touches may help you catch the employer's eye. The most important thing is to remember that your resume's function is to include all of the pertinent data and make a neat impression. Therefore, the first section must include your name, address, and phone number (or that of your answering service, manager, or agent).

The next section should include your social security number and your union associations and membership numbers.

The following section should include your physical data: height, weight, hair color, eye color, and your general look or type. Include the age range that you could honestly portray. Your clothing sizes should be listed-for a suit, shirt, shoe, hat, and gloves if you are a man; and for a hat, dress, shoe, glove, and undergarments and swimwear if you are a woman. Most women are more detailed in the department of measurements. You may want to be explicit as to bust, waist, and hip measurements.

As you will be promoting your vocal abilities if you intend to talk (and talking in any commercial doubles your pay scale) in your audition and subsequently in commercials, you will want to mention the level of your voice (tenor, for example) and the list of any movies or commercials you've done. Mention any live theater productions and the parts you acted. Give all the correct information about each theatrical production, including where and when it was performed.

If you were coached by someone of renown, list it clearly under Professional or Special Training. Also indicate any dance training, fencing, competitive sports, or any other type of movement instruction that could indicate agility or skilled grace. Mention any kind of unusual talent or skill-like skydiving, scuba diving, windsurfing, sailing, skiing, diving, ice-skating, horseback riding, pizza tossing, whistling.

The ability to speak any foreign languages should be noted, and your own nationality and native tongue if it is not simply North American. Even variations in United States accents can make or break your chances at the job.

One last thing to include in your resume is the name of a reference or two if you are not being represented by an agent upon introduction.

Your resume is most often typed on a sheet of paper that fits against and is firmly attached to your glossy eight-by-ten photograph, back to back. Nothing says that you have to fill up your eight-by-ten resume, but do center the information. Neatness and professionalism count a great deal. If you value your crack at the commercial, make your photograph and your resume attractively displayed and appealing.

The photograph that is so important is supposed to be a lively image with projection. The old high school graduate shot is considered to be too stiff and certainly won't get you past the casting agent. There is such a prescribed definitive look that you have to spend a good bit of time on this project. More often than not, your idea of how you look best is not their idea of your best shot! They want to see how you will come across as a warm, believable, likable person. This is not an easy request of one sample photograph.

After much stewing and brewing in front of a photographer who specializes in head shots for television commercial hopefuls, you may come up with one or even two passable shots. Try to get another professional opinion about which shots are best for you. The expense of these head shots will be $500 to $1,000, depending on your choice of photographer and how many prints you decide to have made. This can be a rather large investment if you are doing many auditions and you leave the photograph with attached resume with the casting directors of each. But this photograph can be the reminder that could and often has secured a future or even a different job than the one you tried for.
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